Graham is attracted to opposites or contrasts, discovering the particular beauty in dichotomies such as light and dark or rustic and refined. This approach is reflected in his trademark fitted jackets, fluid dresses, blouses and slouchy knits—all rendered in the rich palette and varied textures, achieved through the meticulous washing and dying processes, that are identified with the Gary Graham name. Inspirations for past collections have included fresh reinterpretations of Dust Bowl-era portraits, the gritty opulence of the Romani (gypsy culture), and antique engravings of botanical specimens. Luxe materials such as silk georgette, wool jersey and duchesse satin are constructed using handmade techniques to glide onto the body as comfortably as a T-shirt. Each garment is designed to be worn either individually or combined and layered interchangeably to create multiple wardrobe options and color combinations.